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CLOUGH HEAD, THE DODDS AND SHEFFIELD PIKE
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The fells in this group lie to
the north of the Sticks Pass which links Stanah at Thirlmere with Glenridding
by Ullswater. They form a lofty and often rugged wall on the eastern side of
St Johns in the Vale continuing the Helvellyn range to it's terminus at
Threlkeld. The main ridge and the summits on it are commonly referred to as
the Helvellyn Dodds. There is little resemblance to Helvellyn as smooth
grassy slopes persist on the upper reaches; apart from on Sheffield Pike and
Glenridding Dodd where rock does come to the surface. These fells do however
exhibit crags and scree slopes on the flanks, particularly above St Johns in
the Vale, and in the case of the ridge over Sheffield Pike just about
everywhere. Of special note is the famous Castle Rock at Legburthwaite; while
the face of Clough Head is very rugged. Great Dodd may be the highest of the
hills in this section, but the most important geologically is Stybarrow Dodd
which sends out a long ridge eastwards to White Stones and Hart Side that
eventually descends to Dockray and Aira Beck over Watermillock Common. On
Green Side, or White Stones as it is often referred to, a secondary ridge
goes over Sheffield Pike to Glenridding Dodd. From many points on these
ridges the views of Ullswater are magnificent. It is largely for the
extensive views that the main ridge is traversed and the summits visited.
Here distances are quickly covered and the walking is enjoyable, but the
fells offer no shelter. There was a lot of mining activity above Glenridding,
and the remains together with the fascination of walking on the old tracks
adds much to a day out here. One of the best is that circling round the head
of the Glencoyne Valley; which at the point where it runs below the Brown
Hills provides an extensive view of Ullswater. In August the heather on the
slopes of Sheffield Pike is a splendid sight, but good weather is important
on this fell. The south east ridge leading up to Heron Pike is the most
rewarding part of this group of fells, and should not be missed. If the
attractive summit of Glenridding Dodd is visited make sure that the edge of
the fell above the lake is included. This is the perfect place to sit down
and have a rest to enjoy the delightful view.
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ROUTE ONE. GREAT DODD FROM DOCKRAY VIA RANDERSIDE.
(Groove Beck) 3.75miles 1900ft of ascent.
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Follow the road up to
High Row, and take the Old Coach Road which leads round the fells to
Wanthwaite near Threlkeld. Where the track swings right half a mile further
turn up a path with Groove Beck on the left. The trek up the waterlogged moor
to Randerside is not the best so this walk is better reserved for a day after
a dry spell of weather. Randerside is a welcome oasis of rocks before the
final steep climb to the summit of Great Dodd. Route Two is the best way back
by far with excellent views of Ullswater. Hart Side may be omitted by
descending from Green Side (White Stones) to Nick Head; where take the miners
track round the head of Glencoyne. Cars can be left at High Row reducing the
distance, but the options for return are now either by way of Hart Side to
Dowthwaitehead, or over Clough Head to the Old Coach Road.
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ROUTE TWO. GREAT DODD
FROM DOCKRAY VIA HART SIDE, GREEN SIDE (WHITE STONES), STYBARROW DODD AND
WATSONS DODD.
6.5miles 2475ft of ascent
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Ascent Breakdown
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Distance
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Ascent
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miles
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km
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ft
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metres
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Dockray to Hart Side.
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3.75
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6
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1625
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495
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Hart Side to White Stones.
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0.75
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1.2
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300
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91
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White Stones to Stybarrow Dodd.
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0.5
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0.8
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250
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76
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Stybarrow Dodd to Watsons Dodd.
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0.75
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1.2
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50
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15
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Watsons Dodd to Great Dodd.
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0.75
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1.2
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250
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76
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South of the bridge over Aira
Beck in Dockray a signpost indicates the start of the ascent. After a gentle
beginning it then gradually climbs the lower slopes of Common Fell to emerge
alongside a wall high above Ullswater. The way ahead is now clear with the
wall on the left contouring Swineside Knott and the Brown Hills. The view
from the larches below the Brown Hills over the lake is a beauty! When the
cross wall is reached coming down from Birkett Fell turn up alongside it to
the cairn and plaque on the fell top. A path heads over the plateau to Hart
Side which is unremarkable apart from a strange ditch across the summit.
Great Dodd is now in sight, but a circuit of the head of Deepdale has to be
made to get to it. Broad ridges are available all the way, and three more
summits will be visited if the short detours to Green Side (White Stones) and
Watsons Dodd are done. Head slightly west of south on a good path, but
continue ahead when it bends right to ascend to the stone sprinkled top of
White Stones. Savour these rocks for there will be no more as the path wends
west, and climbs to Stybarrow Dodd where the highest cairn is adjacent to a
short section of ruined wall. The ridge now heads in a north westerly
direction to Watsons Dodd, a strange fell indeed, which commands a grand view
of Thirlmere and to Skiddaw. Finally go across the shallow depression to
Great Dodd reached by an easy climb. The highest point appears to be north of
the shelter, but it depends on how fussy you are in these matters.
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ROUTE THREE. GREAT
DODD FROM GLENRIDDING VIA GLENRIDDING DODD, SHEFFIELD PIKE, WHITE STONES,
STYBARROW DODD AND WATSONS DODD. 5.25miles 3150ft of ascent.
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Ascent Breakdown
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Distance
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Ascent
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miles
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km
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ft
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metres
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Glenridding to Glenridding Dodd.
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1
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1.6
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1000
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305
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Glenridding Dodd
to Sheffield Pike
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1
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1.6
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900
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274
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Sheffield Pike to White Stones.
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1.25
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2
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700
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213
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White Stones to Stybarrow Dodd.
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0.5
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0.8
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250
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76
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Stybarrow Dodd to Watsons Dodd.
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0.75
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1.2
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50
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15
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Watsons Dodd to Great Dodd.
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0.75
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1.2
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250
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76
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Go up the road to
Greenside and just past the double bend at the second row of cottages turn up
behind them to pick up a steep and at times eroded path. With one prominent
zig zag above Blaes Crag this leads to the col between Glenridding Dodd and
Sheffield Pike. Follow the path up by the wall to the right, and keep to it
as it doubles back across the edge of the summit before curving round to the
obvious highest cairn. Return to the col and ascend the facing ridge on a
delightful path that winds up and around the heather clad rocks. On arriving
at the top turn aside to Heron Pike for the view before resuming the ascent
to the main cairn on Sheffield Pike. Descend to Nick Head where the long pull
to White Stones must be tackled. The path is clear as far as the quarry face
where turn right up the grass to find a continuation to the top. From here
the route coincides with that of route two. If returning to Glenridding a
descent may be made from Stybarrow Dodd to Sticks Pass where turn left down
the well defined track.
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ROUTE FOUR. GREAT DODD FROM LEGBURTHWAITE VIA
WATSONS DODD.
2.25miles 2300ft of ascent. To Watsons Dodd it is 1.5miles 2050ft of
ascent.
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Immediately south of the
tiny church access can be obtained to the fellside and the top of the Castle
Rock which dominates the valley here. The rock should be visited as there is
no such drama or scenic attraction beyond. From the rock head up the fell avoiding
the small crags and scree as best as you can until the gradient eases and all
is grass to the summit. Great Dodd is now only a simple walk away north east.
It is best to return to Legburthwaite over Stybarrow Dodd and by way of
Sticks Pass turning down the well trodden path here.
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ROUTE FIVE. GREAT DODD FROM WANTHWAITE VIA CLOUGH
HEAD.
3.5miles 2625ft of ascent. To Clough Head it is 1.75miles 1900ft of
ascent.
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Leave the Old Coach Road
at the bend above the farm over a stile and through the old quarries to
another stile over which a well defined ‘made’ track makes it's way up the
fell. This used to serve the higher workings but now remains as a splendid
way to Clough Head. Having said that the continuation across the steep fine
scree slope to the grassy summit slopes needs care, but ascending is the best
way to traverse it. On the wide ridge head across the slope to join the main
track coming down from Calfhow Pike and follow it left to the top. Return to
the wide depression and continue ahead to the rocky bluff of Calfhow Pike
after which a long but simple ascent leads to Great Dodd. To avoid the front
of Clough Head for descent continue ahead on the path down to the cairn on
White Pike. The Old Coach Road will be seen below and simple grass slopes
lead down to it. If this is to be the way down then Great Dodd should
be visited first.
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Copyright (C) 2007 B S Baker